VAN HOA NGHE THUAT TROMC MIIP'C KHONG GIAN VAN HOA LANG CO LOG YEN, QUANG NAM NGUYfeN THirONG HY LTS: Da cd nhieu bai bao viet ve ngdi lang cd Ldc Yen

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1 VAN HOA NGHE THUAT TROMC MIIP'C KHONG GIAN VAN HOA LANG CO LOG YEN, QUANG NAM NGUYfeN THirONG HY LTS: Da cd nhieu bai bao viet ve ngdi lang cd Ldc Yen (xa Tien Canh, Tien PhUdc, Quang Nam) nhung chu yeu gidi thieu ve ngdi nha cd dep nhat nam tren gd dd1 ma dng Ngd Dinh Diem da tirng mua hai lan ma khdng dudc, do chu nhan khdng mudn ban... De hieu them gia trj ddc dao cua lang xua vung trung du xu Quang nay, bai viet dudi day ddng gdp vai suy nghi ve viec hinh thanh khdng gian cua ngudi xda khi chgn noi day de thanh lap lang. Phai ndi them, khdng gian kien true lang Ldc Yen la mdt khdng gian van hda nha cd trung du tieu bieu cua tinh Quang Nam. Lang thi phai cd nha. Nha cd cd gia tri dac trung rieng, tuy nhien thudng luon dugc ngudi xua xay dung trong mot khong gian tuong iing vdi gii tri ciia nd. Va vi vay, viec bao tdn nha cd phai bit diu tir viec khoi phue khong chi kien true ma phii chii trgng de'n khong gian xung quanh nd. Noi den van minh a la noi den ne'p a, nhu vay tu su chgn lge vi trf dung nha den loai nha va kieu thiic nhi phai phii hgp vdi eanh quan, dia ly vung ma minh sinh sdng. Cac cu dan Viet ttr miln Bie vao Quang Nam, den Tien Phude mugn hon so vdi eic huyen d ddng bing nhu Tam Ky, Thang Binh, Dien Ban... Vi thi, bing nhimg trii nghiem cua ngudi di trudc cong vdi tri thirc ciia ngudi dia phuang (tri thiic ban dia) ma khi dung nha lam noi trii in, ngudi ta phai dua vio phong thiiy (ddi nui, khe nudc), khai thac nguyen vat lieu xay dung tai chd, chii ye'u li thao mgc (may tre, gd) eiing vdi dit da, dl lam nen cic kieu thiic, kit ciu bin vimg phii hgp khf hau cua viing trung du: mua nhilu, ning ndng va do am cao... Tien Phude ndi chung la vung ban son dia, chd cao la gd, ddi, vimg triing thip Ii thung lung vdi sudi, khe. Lang nay each ling kia thudng la nhimg day ddi va gidi han chu vi ciia lang bdi phin ddi bao quanh cd thung lung ben trong. Sd 22 m Lang Ldc Yen vdi cinh quan vdn cd cua minh, mac dii trai qua sir biln thien thay ddi ciia thien nhien ciing nhu su hiiy diet ciia chiln tranh, nhung den nay, qua nhilu the he sinh sdng, vin ludn dugc gin giii tran trgng bdi ngudi di sau. Lge Yen vin cdn nguyen net dep thien nhien ban diu. Khi den tham Lge Yen, rai nhilu khach thap phuang dlu ddng y rang, canh quan d day dac trung cho vimg trung du ciia ca huyen Tien Phude. Cii ten Tien Canh da chirng minh vl cii ly ma ngudi xua dat ten cho xa, trong dd cd ling Lge Yen. Chi cd mdt con dudng din vao ling, udn luon sit mep ciia rugng liia hai ben. Con dudng chfnh niy cd doan dudng nhu la dudng trung tam d giiia thung IQng chia cit ro net hai phin dit lang vdi day go ddi d hai ben. Vao ling, ben tay trai li Go Tron, tay phai la Gd Ngang, cac khe nudc dim rugng thap la Vung Trau. De di dang tie'p can khdng gian mang chilu sau cua viing smh thai ban son dia ma con ngudi cua lang hang ngiy hit thd, khong gian sdng, mot moi trudng xanh dep thim dam tinh tha ma lang Loc Yen con giii dugc, toi tam chia viing sinh thai nay thinh ba khong gian theo thit tu tilp can tir ngoai vao trong. Khong gian san xuai Viing niy nim d giiia thung IQng, d day

2 VAN HOA CO TRUYEN khdng gian hep bi chia cit bdi khe nudc, bd chin ben canh nhirng rugng liia, cay mau bac thang cao din va cham dut d chan ddi. Vao mua he khd han, nhung ngudn nudc tir cic khe da, ngudn maeh tir ddi da d hai ben va tren cao thim thau xudng dii de cho nong dan cd the tiep tuc canh tic. Ve mua mua IU, nudc tir cic khe sudi chinh cung nhu tren go cao chay xudng ddn vao giira thung lung nen ngudi lang thudng du phdng de cay trdng khong bi lu cudn troi, dit d tren ddi khong bi Id, chudi chay. Nhd bien phap, ky thuat ngan bd bae thang, hudng ddng chay bing each be bd vdi da thien nhien khai thic tai ehd ma nude dugc giu de canh tic quanh nam, tang them dien ti'ch canh tic d thung lung hep niy. Trong khong gian san xuit dac trung cua viing gd ddi, rugng bac thang, vdi ddng nudc luon chuyen dich da mang din cho ngudi khich lin chii mot cim giie sinh soi, no dii vi ci su yen tinh thanh binh ciia viing ddi. Miia xuan Loc Yen, khong gian ddi, gd tran ngap ehdi non I6c bile; miia ha, miia thu vudn rgp mat bdng cau, Idn bon, thanh tri... vi nhimg chilu ning xuyen ddi Iam lip lanh, dng mugt tren nhiing tin cay va vang them mau liia chfn dudi rugng sau... Vao miia nudc chay, dgng vat thiiy sinh boi lgi ben dudi khe nudc chuyen dich lien tuc tir cao xudng thap, tao nen tieng rdc rich muon thud, lim khong gian noi day them net sinh dgng, luan ehuyen vdn cd cua thien nhien. Khong gian thien nhien - moi trudng sdng Qua khdi nhiing bd rugng bac thang hudng len Gd Ddi, noi day la khong gian sdng ma vudn ddi vdi cay li, bd da, ngo da tao nen trong khong gian vdi mau xanh ciia cay vudn bao phu lam cho mii ngdi nau dd ciia nhung ngdi nhi cd ndi bat len, tang them siic quyen ru vi su im ap eua miia dong, sir mit linh ciia miia ha. Dac trung ciia viec bd trf mat bing tdng the khu vudn ddi d day la cac bd da, ngo di vi ca ldi di bing da. Lang Lge Yen ciing nhu cac ling khic d vimg trung du Tien Phude cd cich khai thic vi tao dung vudn bing ky thuat xep di cong phu vi dgc dao. Ky thuat xe'p di tu nhien, khong phii gia cong phirc tap nhu cit, xe, tao thanh bd tudng khong qui cao (tir Im din 1,2m) theo kieu de ldn chdp nhd din, vien ldn d dudi, vien nhd d tren gai dan xen khong cin xi mang nhung vin vimg chai. Cay cd, dia y cd Pi ""^ Hi <Q o; - Q' O 0>0 O O' Q Qo r- o> o < Sd22 r

3 VAN HC)A NGHE THUAT TROMC MIWC Trang tri kep nde cua nha cd 6 Loc Yen the di dang mgc xen vao cac khe da, bl mat. Theo thdi gian, nhiing ng5 di, thim di dugc ban tay con ngudi sip dat, tao dung, thim thuc vat phii kin da lim xanh hoa va mem di su kho cung ciia da; tao ra net cd kinh tram mac ciia khong gian van hda lang cd. Phai noi ring, ngudi dan cac lang d Tien Phude, trong dd cd ling Lge Yen, luon luon tu hao vl ngo da dugc xep dat kheo leo va mang tinh nghe thuat eao. GS, KTS Hoang Dao Kinh, trong lin tham ling gin day, da ngd ngang trudc nhiing ngo da xinh xin, phai thdt ien day la nghe thuat sip dat mang tinh thdm my ddn gian. Sir biei dimg lai, kheo leo trong iing xir vdi thien nhien, dua theo ve dep vdn cd ciia nd da nang eao tfnh nhan van ciia ngudi xua, sdng hda hgp vdi thien nhien. Ciing nhu viec bd trf mat bing khu vudn, viec xic lap vi trf dung nha d trong khu dit minh sd hiiu ciia cu dan d viing ddng bing xii Quing va viing trung du Tien Phude dlu cd net tuong ddng. Khong gian sdng vdi moi trudng xanh, vira tuan thii theo thuat phong thiiy, nhung lai khic phue phdng tranh mgi khic nghiet ciia thien nhien ciia viing ddi mii, lay ylu td hda hgp Iam diu, din chung nhu: chudi trong sau, cau trong tntdc (de chdng cii ning), idy vq Men hda, ldm nhd hudng nam (theo phong thiiy). Dac biet, vi tri dung lang ngay xua dugc cac bac tiln hiln van dung diing yeu td phong thiiy, hgi dii cac ylu td: td thanh long, hitu bach ho, minh dudng, thuy III. Dimg trong nha nhln ra, ben tay trai la thanh long (rdng xanh) gdm mii ddi, hang cay, trudc cd khe nude, hd (nhan tao), sudi, ddi mii ben trii luon cao hon ben phai; ben phai bach hd (cgp tring) cung cd thi dat eao, cd dudng lg din vio ling, vao nha. Phfa trudc cd minh dudng, thiiy tu vdi ddng nudc la rugng ddng (hay vung trau), phfa xa cd tien in hay chu tudc (chim se dd) (1) che chin, chinh Ii Hon Ngang; die dia hon li phfa sau d hudng bie CO huyen vd (riia den) chfnh la Gd Trdn vdi ddi cay Iam hau tim, bao bgc. Mot thuc tl lam chiing toi suy nghi la cd nhiing ngoi nha nim ben kia ddi theo hudng nam (Hdn Ngang), tuy dugc yeu td tdt la nim lung chimg ddi (2) nhung hudng nhi lai la hudng bie (gio bac lanh) khong thuan lgi. Dilu nay eo the ly giai nhu sau: trong lich sir lap lang, vi canh quan moi trudng chung, nhiing ngudi din trudc nhu dong hg ciia cu Nguyin Huynh Anh dlu dua theo mo hinh quy hoach lang truyen thdng ciia ngudi Viet d ddng bing Bie Bg de ap dung cho viee lap ling, lap vudn, dung nha tai ling Loc Yen ndi rieng va Tien Phude noi ehung. Mat khic, do cqng chu trgng tdi yeu td sue khde eiia ea cong ddng vi gia dinh nen da chgn vi trf ddi phfa bie (tay trai tir dudng chinh vao lang) de dung nhi vdi y nghia tga bac, trieii nam (dua lung vl bie, hudng mat vl nam), hudng don dugc gio nam mat lanh, tranh gid bie lanh budt. Nha cira tua lung vao Sd 22 EH )

4 VAN HOA CO TRUYEN nggn ddi phfa sau (Go Tron) tranh dugc gio bie khic nghiet va cai ning gay git tir phfa tay, phu hgp vdi cau ngan ngir ma dan gian da due kit: Idy vahien hoa, idm nhd hudng nam. Trong khi dd, nhting cu dan den sau khong edn dugc phin dit tdt dl cu trii cho nen phii chgn khu vuc ben kia ddi phfa nam (Hdn Ngang) va phii lam nha quay vl hudng bie (mat chfnh nha khong thi quay len tren ddi, vi vay phai quay xudng, dung vao hudng bie (dong bie hoac tay bie). Tir dd, viec quy hoach trong lap vudn, trdng cay, tao Idi di dlu phai dua theo the dit, ngudn nudc. Nha cu Nguyin Thdng, nha cu Nguyin Dinh Huynh, nhi cu Nguyin Nggc Anh,... thuge nhiing ddng hg den sau nhung qua bao the he vin tru vung, khic phue dugc su khic nghiet ciia thien nhien. Quan sit thi cic khu vudn eiia nhtmg hg dan tren dlu cd ng5 da, bd di din vio nha, hing cay che tau dugc trdng song song bd da, eae cay kieng, hoa trang tri (mai, hdng) vin dugc cham chiit d phia trudc san gach phoi liia, cac cay an qua, lay gd, Iiy diu, nhting cay dae san eiia Tien Phude nhu: chudi, mft, ldn bon, thanh tri, qui, tieu... dlu dugc trdng chen nhau tda khip xung quanh nha, va ehii nha eung ed kinh nghiem trdng cic loai cay cao bdng mit d phia trudc dl chdng ndng, chdng gid. Nhin chung, diu chgn khong gian sdng la vudn ddi ben trai phia bie (Gd Trdn) hay ddi ben phai (Go Ngang) thi ling vin dugc hudng cai ngudn maeh phat trien sinh soi. Nhiing ngoi nha CO doi nui phia sau eo bin nhan dugc nhtmg ylu td phong thiiy tdt nhat. Dac biet, cay cdi vudn tugc sau nha luon luon xanh tdt nhd ngudn nudc thien nhien tir da niii chay ra, vach mii di khong eao, khong bi sut Id ciing huyin vu bio ve chinh la yeu td quan trgng nhit. Van dl hudng nha dugc cac cu dan den sau din din khic phue, hoa giai, giii yeu td thien nhien: cay cd, dat da, song sudi lam khong gian sdng, dd la phuong each ma ngudi lang Lge Yen, trai qua nhilu the he, da dua len hang diu, tao nen mdi quan he than thien thuc su giua eon ngudi - moi trudng - thien nhien. Khong gian d va ngoi nha cua cu dan Loc Yen Li nhi d, noi trii in, nhung neu lam nha tren dinh ddi thi roi vao the co phong dpc vd: nha phii hung gid, sim set va cac ylu td khic nhu thanh long, bach hd, huyen vu dlu khong cd. Vi vay, khi dung nha, ngudi xua da dua vao khu vudn ddi xanh kfn d tren, cic loai cay, tham thuc vat ben dudi dl sinh soi trong moi trudng im eiia viing ddi di va d vi tri lung chirng ddi. Ngudi xua da tao ra nhimg ngo di, nhung ldi nhd udn lugn bing da din vao nha. Diem cudi ciing eiia ldi din vao nhi khong triing tim () (tam) ciia gian giiia, vao nhi luon luon qua mot san rgng, ngay trudc li nln dai sau lit gach, ngiy nay mdt sd nha ling xi mang. Cting nhu cic ngoi nhi d ddng bing, ngudi Loc Yen khi dung nhi d lung chimg ddi cung cd tao ra mot mat bing dii de dung hai kiln true la nhd chinh, nhd ngang va mot nhd cdu de ndi lien thong vdi hai nha tren. Nha bep, chudng bd, heo, ga... bd trf cao thap tiiy theo do ddc ciia ddi. Bd cue tdng the chung eiia cic cong trinh thudng duge sip xep nhu sau: Nhd chinh - nhd cdu - nhd ngang thang gdc; nhd ngang luon luon nim ben trai nha chinh (hudng dong). Nhd bep bdto'sau nhd ngang; cac chudng trau, bd, ga... bd tri tiep sau nhd bep hoac nhd ngang. Gieng nude lay ngudn tir ddi di ben tren hoac dao ben phii hoac ben trii trudc mat nhi. Ngay nay ngudi ta dung may bom, dng nhua din nudc tir tren khe ngudn vl. Ao ca, be can dugc bd tri trudc mat nha. Vat heu xay dung: Cd the khing dinh ring liic cac cu dan den lap ling dung nhi sinh sdng thi hiu nhu deu sir dung ngudn vat lieu xay dung cd ngay tai dia phuong, dd la thdo mpe. Rieng d Lge Yen cd thi ggi them tlw mgc. Diu tien phai la khung sudn bing tre, than eung bing tre dan, trit bing hdn hgp dit vi ram ra hoac xay bing di viia, bing dit set, phan mii Igp bing tranh. Truyin thdng lim nha bing gd mft duge du nhap len tir ddng bing. Thong thudng, ngudi ta phai dgi khi cay mft trdng trong vudn dii to de ed phin loi tdt cho viec lam nha (0 nam trd len), nhung Cling cd khi ngudi ling mua gd tir noi khic. Tuy nhien, viec dung nha gd (nhi rudng) S6-22 JJ

5 VAN HOA NGHF THUAT TROMC MIWC thi rit tdn kem, va thudng khi ngudi ta giau cd mdi dung dugc loai nha niy. Ngoi nhi xua d Lge Yen trudc nam 1940 hiu nhu dlu lam ngudn vat lieu tre, gd, tranh. Nhung nam sau khi cd dudng 6 to tir Tam Ky de'n Tien Phude thi mii nhi duge Igp ngoi am duong (4) thay cho Igp tranh nhu trudc; vich dai bao che nha ciing duge thay bing tudng di (khai thic tai chd). Chiing dugc lien kit nhau bing vqa dat, to phu ben ngoai bing hdn hgp dudng mi'a vdi voi. Lang Lge Yen ngay trudc eho den hom nay vin d trong mot thung Iting bao quanh li nhimg ddi cay chen vdi di, cich day 50 nam cdn tdn tai nhiing ng6i nha xinh xin lam tir tre: nhd rpi/rgi (cot chon xudng dit) den nhtmg ngoi nhd rudng (cot ke tren di tim) bing gd vudn, vach bing dat lien kit vdi di, tit ea dlu Igp mai bing tranh. Chfnh nhimg ngoi nhi niy da phin inh tinh thin ro net eiia cu dan dia phuong vl kiln true sinh thai, than thien vdi thien nhien. Kien true ay diu chi dimg lai la ngoi nha d dan gian nhd be nhung li bai hgc cho chiing ta hom nay vl su hda hgp ciia ngoi nhi d vdi moi trudng thien nhien. Ngay nay, xu hudng do thi hoa nong thon da lam thay ddi cinh quan kien triic cua nhilu ling que Viet Nam, trong dd cd Quang Nam. Va lang Lge Yen d xa Tien Canh, huyen Tien Phude cting da cd dau hieu cua vat lieu xay dung hien dai. Dau tien la nhtmg con dudng chfnh din vao lang da dugc be tong hda, tiep theo la nhilu doan xep di nguyen thiiy tren ldi din vao nha cting dugc thay bang cac Idp xi mang. Chi ft, xi mang cung da tham gia Iam nhiing mang thuc vat bi buy hoai, cam giie thien nhien xanh da bi mit di. Phin nha d ed truyin thudng Iam bing tre, gd la nhtmg vat lieu thio mgc dl hiiy hoai bdi khf hau im thap, mdi mgt. Khong gian d, mat bing sinh hoat dugc thay ddi eho phii hgp euge sdng hom nay da din den nhilu ngoi nha xua bi bien dang do chii nha tu y sira chtia bing vat lieu mdi, hien dai nhu be tong, gach men, kfnh. Nhtmg gia tri khong gian, canh quan moi trudng sdng, kien true d tai lang Lge Yen da neu tren cd the bi buy hoai, mat di hay bien dang trong tuong lai gin. Dl tim hieu ky vl gia tri eiia khong gian mgt lang xua viing trung du can cd su nghien cuu cua cic nha chuyen mon, gdp phin to ldn vao viec nghien cilu kiln triic ed truyin Viet Nam d miln Trung ndi ehung va d Quang Nam ndi rieng. Tit nghien eiiu, se cd nhimg nhan dinh, danh gia va nhtmg kiln nghi nhim giiip cho nhung ngudi lam cong tic bao tdn, va nginh du lich chgn dugc giai phip hiiu hieu trong viee gin giq, bio tdn vi phit huy khong gian kiln triic mang dam net van hda ciia mgt vung que van vat. TQ dd, se lam cho ngudi dan ed y thuc tieh cue gin giu bao ve di sin kien tnic truyin thdng cua lang que minh s N.TH 1. Tien an hay chu tudc: Trong khong gian minh duongco cac ndi, go dong ndi len (theo thuat ngii dia ly xira goi la sa i^'y), son (UJ), la cac dang the nho len trong cac mat thanh long, bach hd, minh dudng). Tuy theo vi tn' goi ten rieng de phan biet. Thf du, 0 gan vdi kie'n true thi goi la tien dn hay dn scfn: xa hon thi gpi la trien san hay chu tudc. Nhung nhin chung, chiic nang ciia tien dn hay chu tudc la che chan, bao ve 0 mat trudc kie'n trdc, tranh tac dong true xung va ciia cai kien triic nen cung goi chung la tien an. Theo Lucng Trpng Nhan, Co hpc phucmg Dong trong nghe thuat Iden true, Nxb Lao dgng, HaNpi. 2006, tr Ddi v6i ngudi Viet xua: "Manh dai ma hp chpn de dung nha phai la mpt khu dat dang da't bdi, cd tha.sinh co lap nghiep lau dai ma khong bi.sat Id. Khu dat ay lai phai CO ta thanh long, hiru bach hd, tien chu tudc, hau huyen vu. tuc la mpt dia hinh co song ho dang ddi voi go bai, cd ddng rpng thong thoang dang truac de lam rupng va cd mat nudc dang sau de' kie'm ca". Theo Chu Quang Trii, Vdn hda Viet Nam nhin tu my thuat, tap I, Nxb My thudt. Ha Npi, 2002, tr ,.. Qia ngo thucmg khong lam dung chfnh giua nha va san de tranh ngudi ngoai nhln thsng vao trung tam nha... Theo Dao Duy Anh, Viet Nam vdn hoa su cuang, Nxb Vdn hoa thong tin. Ha Npi Mua ttr Hpi An len, chuyen chd bang dudng song den ben Ky Phii, Tam Ky rdi chuyen len xe de'n Tien Phude, cudi cung la ganh bp ve lang nen gia thanh, theo ldi ke ciia cu Huynh Anh, la ra't cao. So 22